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THE CATAMARAN BOOK

CATAMARAN SAILING FROM START TO FINISH

Tom & Brian Phipps

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TOM & BRIAN PHIPPS

CATAMARAN EXPERTS

Tom Phipps is a professional sailor, and has been sailing catamarans since the age of 10. He dominated catamaran racing at a youth level, medalling three times at the ISAF Youth World Championships and winning three times at the RYA Youth Nationals. From these promising beginnings Tom has gone on to win a number of national championships: the Dart, Formula 18, Hobie 16 (2x) and Tornado classes; succeeded in the Hobie 16, Formula 16 and Student Keelboat European championships; and claimed victory in the Dart world championships, two times over.

Tom has also competed in the C Class World Championships (often called the ‘Little America’s Cup’) in a wing-sailed catamaran and races in the Flying Phantom professional catamaran series.

He currently campaigns a Nacra 17 Olympic catamaran and narrowly missed the GBR team selection for the Rio 2016 Olympic Games. He is now fully focussed on the 2020 Olympic Games in Japan.

Brian Phipps, Tom’s father, has been involved in manufacturing, sailing and racing catamarans since 1978. He has won various catamaran championships in his time and now supplies a range of catamarans, coaching and technical support worldwide.

He runs the Windsport Cat Clinics that provide an ideal introduction to the practical business of catamaran sailing delivering basic skills and performance coaching to sailing teams all over the world. He was the RYA Catamaran Youth Coach and has coached in the UK, China, Dubai, Ireland, Jersey and Oman.

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CONTENTS

 

Foreword

Introduction

PART ONE: GETTING STARTED

Which Catamaran?

Parts Of The Catamaran

Assembling The Catamaran

A Touch Of Theory

Your First Sail

Catamaran Care

PART TWO: SKILL DEVELOPMENT

Launching

Reaching

Beating

Tacking

Running / Downwind

Gybing

Trapezing

Man Overboard!

Capsizing

Landing

Race Tuning

The Race

PART THREE: HIGH PERFORMANCE CATS & ADVANCED TECHNIQUES

Your First Sail With A Gennaker

Helming From The Wire

Upwind

Tacking

The Bear Away

Downwind

Gybing

The Leeward Mark

Reaching

Tuning

PART FOUR: NEW DEVELOPMENTS

Foiling & Wing Sails

Acknowledgements

FOREWORD

BY SANTIAGO LANGE

Catamaran sailing is an incredible sport, and one that can have you hooked for life. I started cat sailing back in 1997, transferring from the Laser, and have been lucky enough to represent Argentina in six Olympic Games, winning two bronze medals in the Tornado class. I was thrilled to win gold in the Nacra 17 at Rio 2016, aged 54, and I am not hanging up my kit yet!

Catamaran sailing is a lifetime sport, largely because it is great fun – whether you are sailing a beach cat on a sailing holiday, racing at your local club, competing nationally or internationally, aiming for the Olympics or even having a tilt at the America’s Cup. The stable platform and turn of speed provided by the two hulls will put a smile on anyone’s face!

But to get the most out of your catamaran sailing you absolutely have to get the basics right, and that is where this book comes in. Tom and Brian Phipps, who have also spent their lifetimes devoted to catamaran sailing, provide an indispensable, solid foundation which takes you from your first trip on board a cat to competing at a serious level.

Tom Phipps lit up the catamaran youth sailing world from 2004 with his amazing successes at the ISAF (now World Sailing) Youth Championships – medalling 3 years in a row, two of them gold. He now competes on the Olympic circuit and certainly knows what he is talking about. I have enjoyed racing against Tom (even if sometimes I wish he wasn’t quite so talented!).

Just like me, Tom has been inspired and influenced throughout his sailing career by his father. Brian Phipps has been at the centre of catamaran sailing in the UK, and elsewhere, for many decades and has had success in an enviable list of catamaran championships in his time.

This tremendous book presents both Tom and Brian’s enormous knowledge of catamaran sailing, and the industry as a whole, as well as conveying their passion for and dedication to the sport.

If you want to enjoy catamaran sailing, and improve your skills, I thoroughly recommend this book.

Good luck, and I hope to see you out on the water!

Santiago Lange

Nacra 17 gold medallist, Rio Olympic Games, 2016

World Sailing’s Sailor of the Year, 2016

6-time Olympian: 1 x gold, 2 x bronze

INTRODUCTION

 

Why is sailing catamarans so very special? Is it their speed? Is it their power? Is it their shape? Is it their size? By the time you have finished using this book we hope that we will have contributed to your catamaran knowledge and your future enjoyment of this fast-moving and exciting discipline of sailing. The book is arranged into four parts providing support and knowledge from your first experience through to glimpses of the latest developments in cat sailing.

Your hosts, Tom Phipps, international catamaran racer, and Brian Phipps, specialist catamaran trainer / coach, have brought together all their training, coaching and catamaran racing techniques, skills and knowledge to provide something that every developing catamaran sailor can draw on.

To new cat sailors: welcome. Catamarans are fast and fun; we encourage you to aim high and enjoy your catamaran sailing as much as – and maybe even more than – we have, and still do. Catamaran sailing is a discipline just like sailing dinghies, windsurfers and keelboats; the earlier you start, and the more time you spend on the water, the better you become. So aim high and make your mark on the sport of sailing by sailing a catamaran.

Part One introduces the total novice to the very basics: the catamaran platform, rig and how to use the wind through to enjoying your first sail, explaining all aspects of catamaran sailing in wind forces 2 and 3. Experienced sailors from other sailing disciplines may wish to browse through this section, noting the subtle differences they should be aware of when moving to catamarans.

Part Two contains information for those who can already sail other types of craft and those who have successfully completed Part One, focussing on ‘standard’ catamarans like the Dart, Nacra and Hobie ranges. It covers light and strong wind techniques, trapezing, downwind sailing and sailing on the sea. You will gain an insight into handling your cat in adverse conditions so that, when you are out sailing in stronger winds, the potential speed will be thrilling not frightening, and light winds rewarding rather than frustrating.

An introduction to the main aspects of racing is also included, with the emphasis on how to get the best out of your cat and improve your position in a race – perfect as the introduction to club racing and local regattas. Catamarans are fast, situations change rapidly and advantages can be won and lost quickly, so you must try to stay on top of each situation in order to achieve your best result.

Part Three covers the more advanced – high performance – catamarans, and the challenges and knowledge required to master them over and above what has already been covered. Many cats are fitted with a gennaker (an asymmetric spinnaker), and we look in detail at how to handle these exciting downwind sails. To counteract the extra power generated there is the double trapezing option so helming from the wire and advanced techniques in the race environment are also covered.

Part Four introduces some of the exciting current developments in our sport. Foiling and wing sails are looked at through Tom’s personal experiences of both racing and being involved in their development.

Whatever your catamaran experience: welcome. We have three things in common:

Speed

Power

Two Hulls

We look forward to seeing you on the water!

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PART 1

GETTING STARTED

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WHICH CATAMARAN?

There is a wide range of catamarans varying in hull shape, sail plan, number in the crew, complexity and performance. Some have centreboards, others daggerboards, while others have skegs or even asymmetric hulls. Whichever type you choose, the basic sailing techniques and concepts are the same; the important thing is that your cat provides the sort of sailing, fun and thrills you desire.

Don’t just take the manufacturers’ or owners’ word for it – book a trial sail, talk to other catamaran sailors, find out about class associations, second-hand values, technical support, replacement parts and where you might sail. It is important that your cat fits your sailing needs as well as your pocket! There is limited benefit buying an all-out racing machine if you simply want to cruise or race at your local club with a strong fleet of another catamaran class.

Capsizing and tacking a catamaran are often the biggest concerns for the beginner. A well-designed catamaran is easily righted, tacked and manoeuvred using the correct techniques; so just like anything else you plan to buy: take reliable advice, have a sail and you will not be disappointed.

HULL SHAPE

The choice of hull shape depends on your sailing requirements. Almost all shapes will perform adequately in a range of conditions, but excel in only a few. The higher the performance, the greater the need for protective care, regular maintenance, and attention to the hull’s skin.

HULLS WITH SKEGS

Each hull is identical in shape, and sideways movement through the water is restricted by a deep keel that forms a skeg about two-thirds of the way along the hull.

Well suited to both flat water and sea conditions, the skeg system is often seen in European-designed club fleet racing and leisure designs as it merges performance with simplicity.

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Skeg-style hulls (like the Dart 18)

ASYMMETRIC HULLS

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Asymmetric hulls are designed to replace dagger-boards or centreboards. Each hull is handed – that is to say that the port hull is a mirror image of the starboard hull. Although not as efficient as hulls with boards, asymmetric hulls do simplify the layout of the catamaran, making it simpler to handle and maintain.

The amount of rocker (curve) built into the hull shape can affect handling: more rocker can lead to less stability fore and aft.

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Asymmetric hulls (like the Hobie 16)

HULL WITH CENTREBOARDS / DAGGERBOARDS

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Catamarans fitted with daggerboards or centreboards are generally the most efficient upwind performers. They do, however, require maintenance, and must be handled carefully when launching and beaching. Avoid underwater obstructions to prevent damage to the foils or the hull.

Centreboards fold up into a cassette inside the hull whilst daggerboards, when raised, protrude from the deck line. Either way, take care to prevent stones and sand getting into the boxed area when beaching, as this will restrict movement and can cause internal damage.

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Hulls with daggerboards (like the F16)

Some daggerboards are now designed to give vertical lift (e.g. C-Foils and J-Foils). See Part 4.

HULL MATERIAL OPTIONS

WOOD COMPOSITES

Wood is an option for those who enjoy building a leisure or lightweight performance hull at home. Wood laminates and epoxy’s can provide excellent strength to weight ratios but you are unlikely to find a modern production catamaran in this material. Older catamarans made using wood laminates should be inspected with care.

POLYPROPYLENE (ROTA-MOULDED) STYLE MATERIALS

This is the most popular material, in recent years, for training school-designed catamarans due to its durability and low cost of manufacture per unit. Rota moulded catamarans provide a robust hull platform that can take the knocks of sailing tuition and beach grounding, providing a low maintenance cat. These advantages are balanced by hull weight, stiffness and repair: all things that affect the practicality and how a catamaran handles and performs on and off the water.

GRP (FIBERGLASS)

GRP resins, materials and construction methods have progressed in all aspects since the early sixties. It is the most popular material for most class racing catamarans combining strength with lightness, durability with life span. Damage to a GRP hull can normally be repaired by an experienced technician to a standard that will not affect performance.

CARBON FIBRE LAMINATE

The cutting edge of catamaran manufacture: carbon fibre laminates provide the ultimate in strength, stiffness and lightness. Largely used on cats that are pushing the very edge of catamaran sailing boundaries, the cost of these craft reflect the various technologies involved.

SAIL PLAN

The vast majority of catamarans have fully battened mainsails and high-ratio jibs for maximum efficiency. The sail material can vary from Dacron to Mylar depending on the sail’s design shape and function.

Some mainsails are supported along the foot by a boom; others are loose-footed, with no boom. A boom allows additional adjustment and control of the mainsail shape and rig tuning. A loose-footed sail simplifies the system and does away with the complication and restrictions of a boom, with the sail shape and position controlled by the mainsheet tension, traveller and sheeting angle.

NUMBER OF CREW

There is nothing quite like sailing a catamaran as a team, with helm and crew working together to get the maximum performance out of their cat. But the reality is that many people find it hard to get a regular crew. Fortunately there are plenty of catamarans for single-handed sailing.

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The Shadow X is a high performance single-handed cat

PARTS OF THE CATAMARAN

The diagrams on pages 19 and 20 show you what most parts of your catamaran are called, but here are a few more words which it will be useful to know.

Aft

Towards the back of the cat

Block

A unit with a wheel inserted which ropes run through (pulley)

Bung

A drainage plug found on some hulls

Foils

Generally: those surfaces under the water that are retractable: rudders, centreboards, daggerboards; sometimes: hydrofoils that can raise the cat out of the water when sailing

Forward

Towards the front of a cat

Gudgeons

Fittings on the transom with a hole to secure the rudder

Halyard

A rope or wire used to hoist or lower sails

Leeward

The side of the cat on which the mainsail is set when sailing (away from the wind)

Pintles

Pin-like fittings on the rudder to secure the rudder to the gudgeons

Platform

The area the team move around on: the hulls and trampoline

Port

Left

Shackle

A ‘U’ shaped piece of metal secured with a pin, used for securing halyards to sails etc.

Sheave

A wheel in a block or pulley

Starboard

Right

Windward

The side of the cat opposite to which the mainsail is set when sailing (closer to the wind)

DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS

THE HULLS

Each hull is a sealed unit, with built-in buoyancy to keep it afloat if damaged. A small breather hole positioned in a suitable location above the water-line allows for changes in air pressure. All fittings attached to the hull are sealed to prevent water ingress.

MAINSAIL DOWNHAUL (TYPICALLY CALLED THE CUNNINGHAM IN A DINGHY)

The mainsail downhaul is a control system attached to the tack of the sail to help shape and provide power control. You will notice that with no tension on the luff (the front edge of the sail), the mainsail has little shape and is rather like a flat piece of cardboard. When the downhaul is tensioned the sail and mast are forced into a shape that changes the camber of the sail to produce the wing effect.

SPANNER LINE OR BAR

The spanner line or bar is normally connected to the foot of the mainsail or boom and to the bottom of the mast. It is adjusted to control the amount of mast rotation for the required airflow over the mainsail in relation to mast bend.

JIB & MAINSAIL HALYARDS

The halyards are the lines that hoist the sails. They are often part of a halyard lock system as described later in the book.

SHROUDS, FORESTAY & BRIDLE WIRES

These are the wires / lines that hold the mast upright (standing rigging). They are subjected to incredible stress and should be checked regularly for any sign of corrosion or wear as should their connections.

TRAPEZE WIRES

The purpose of a trapeze wire is to support the crew (or helmsman) when they extend their body weight outboard by ‘standing’ on the edge of the hull.

The wires are connected to the mast about two-thirds of the way up and run down almost parallel to the shrouds. They each have a large connecting ring at the bottom that clips into the crew’s trapeze harness, and are loosely connected to the catamaran by shock-cord. They can be adjusted to support the crew at the correct trapeze height.

TRAPEZE RESTRAINING LINE

The restraining lines (if fitted) are connected to the transom of the cat and can be used in conjunction with the trapeze wire system to provide added stability when reaching in strong winds to prevent the crew from being pulled forward.

RUDDER & TILLER ASSEMBLY

The rudders are normally fixed in the raised position when on the beach and then lowered when the cat is on the water. The tiller arms are joined by a connecting bar controlled by the helm via the tiller extension. The tiller extension is your steering mechanism and you should hold it at all times when sailing.

MAINSHEET, JIBSHEET & TRAVELLER LINE

These are the ropes that control the positions of the sails. The helm and crew should be able to adjust these at any time to allow for changes in wind strength or direction, just as you would do with the accelerator and brake pedals in a car.

TRAMPOLINE & TOESTRAPS

The trampoline covers the area between the hulls to allow easy movement from one hull to the other. The toestraps lie along the trampoline and secure your feet when you lean out over the side of the hull. As the crew or helm becomes more proficient, they will use the trapeze, and may use the foot-loops (if fitted) positioned along the side of the hull.

MAIN & REAR BEAMS

These are the spars that hold the two hulls together. There are various methods of attachment from sleeves in the hull to beam bolts and clamps. They must be securely fastened and in good condition along with the fixing attachments.

MAST & MAST BALL

The mast sits in the mast ball (attached to the main beam) allowing the mast to rotate about its axis, giving improved airflow over the sails. The mast itself is normally a sealed unit, giving a degree of buoyancy that helps reduce the possibility of a capsize inversion. It also aids capsize recovery should that occur.

DIAMOND WIRES & SPREADERS

These can be used to control the mast support and profile on higher performance catamarans. A combination of spreader angle and diamond tension creates pre-bend fore and aft as well as sideways support.

GENNAKER

Also referred to as an asymmetric spinnaker, this light weight sail is used largely to increase downwind performance. It is stored in a chute or similar when sailing upwind or not in use.

RIGHTING LINE

The righting line is your aid to righting your catamaran following a capsize. It is normally secured around the mast heel and stored in place where it can easily be retrieved.

STANDARD CAT

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Dart 18 with parts labelled

HIGH PERFORMANCE CAT

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F16 with parts labelled

ASSEMBLING THE CATAMARAN

Assuming your catamaran has been delivered as two hulls, a mast and a box of equipment, this chapter gives you a general overview of what to do, whether it be a single-handed or a two-person cat. Specific rigging manuals are available from the manufacturer to help you.

STANDARD CAT

ASSEMBLING THE PLATFORM

To put the cat together you need to:

Attach the beams to the hulls

Attach the trampoline to the platform

The exact method of attaching the beams to the hulls and the trampoline may differ slightly by type of catamaran, but a common way is shown in the photo sequence.

Once the cat has been put together, it is a good idea to familiarise yourself with the various positions and adjustments available on your catamaran: the mainsheet and jibsheet jamming blocks, the toestrap positions and, most important of all, the method of raising and lowering the rudders (and boards, if fitted).

Assembling The Dart Platform

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1 Lay out the various parts and identify them

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2 Position the hulls side-by-side about 3 metres apart on level ground

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3 Prepare to insert the main beam by taking the pressure off the retaining clip

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4 Insert the main beam into one hull with the mast ball facing up. (In some cases the beams are a frame or are bolted directly to the hulls)

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5 Push the beam right home to the thrust pad

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6 Insert the rear beam with the traveller facing up

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7 Move the remaining hull into position and slide it into the free end of the beams, keeping the hull in line during the process

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8 Make sure the retaining clip is located correctly

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9 Put on the rubber sealing rings and hatch covers

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10 Feed the trampoline into the track on the main beam

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11 Slide the trampoline into the tracks on the hulls

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12 Insert the trampoline tube

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13 Lace the trampoline tube to the rear beam… running the lacing through fittings as shown

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14 Tension the trampoline lacing: remember the trampoline will stretch during use and will need re-tensioning at a later date

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15 Add the toe straps by drawing the line through the hole and back through the loop in the strap

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16 Draw the free end of the line through the loop in the other end and tie it securely... and insert the paddle in the storage bag

Alternative Systems

Other classes have different ways of assembling the platform. Where bolts are used, line the holes up carefully making sure the threads are greased and not cross threaded.

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On the Hobie the platform support cup is placed in the beam upright, tapped into place and then bolted

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On some other cats, the beam is bolted to the hull

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Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the stated specification

There are also different ways of attaching the trampoline, but with all it is vital to re-tension it regularly.

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The Hobie 15 has lacing down the centre of the trampoline

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The Nacra 17 has lacing to attach the trampoline to the hulls

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The Topaz trampoline is tightened at the corners

ATTACHING & RAISING THE MAST

To attach the mast you need to:

Attach the halyards (if required)

Attach the mast to the mast ball

Attach the standing rigging

Raise the mast and secure the standard rigging

Once again, some of this may differ from cat to cat, but the basic approach is shown in the photo sequence.

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1 If necessary, feed the halyards up the mast

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2 And through the appropriate sheaves

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3 Lay the heel of the mast onto the mast ball with the mast laying aft; support the mast tip on a trestle or similar; take care not to rest the mast on the rear beam without substantial padding

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4 Place the mast foot onto the ball and secure it (usually with a retaining pin): this prevents the heel jumping off the ball when it is being raised

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5 Attach the hound fitting / standing rigging, checking all hound shackles and rigging links are secure and in good condition

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6 Take the shrouds to the hull shroud plates, making sure there are no kinks or twists in the wires

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7 Connect the shrouds to the shroud plates on the hulls

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8 Lay the trapeze wires over the main beam along with the forestay

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9 Feed the jib halyard through the locking ring on the forestay

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